mettelus

That is the only version guaranteed mpox-free... all other BLAHs use at your own risk.

Grab something like TreeSize Free and check your C drive. Many programs leave a massive footprint in the C:/Windows/Installer folder (that is a hidden system folder) by default. Folders that begin bubbling over 4GB are my candidates for junctions, but that particular folder cannot be junctioned or it disables the Windows Installer. Temp files in Windows/Temp and Users/appdata/Local/Temp also build up (those can be purged). The User/Downloads can be moved as well (or deleted depending on preference), but a utility that lets you see folder size is where to start.

Wow, I just found out they dropped the LP kits earlier this year (more rumor is that Gibson asked them to stop selling them). I am glad now that I didn't take the time to write a review up (did it on here instead)... they totally obliterated even any reference to them ever existing through StewMac. Quite a few Amazon links show, but those are all dead too.

+1 to both of the above comments. The embedded Windows defrag is actually sufficient for most instances, but it doesn't have the ability to "consolidate free space" on a drive that I am aware of. That routine is intensive and doesn't need to be run often at all (I run this about once per year), but what it buys you is massive writes (like a "Save As..." on a cwp project) will have enough space to write everything on contiguous tracks. That will cut down on fragmentation issues even occurring, since that is caused by the system filling "holes" that are available. Data management is far better than it used to be, so the system typically finds holes big enough to fit entire files in them when possible, but that doesn't prevent it from scattering associated files all over the place (even if individual files are not fragmented, the seek times will go up due to this).

They recorded Yoko Ono in 1970. Some are still not over that one. https://en.everybodywiki.com/List_of_recordings_made_at_Abbey_Road_Studios

I am not familiar with Monster Drums, so that may very well not be GM mapped. Another trick when mapping existing MIDI to a new instrument (I am "assuming" you have a single MIDI track with all of the kit pieces on it, i.e., one channel (?)... if not this gets more complex). If you expand out the Piano Roll View, you can run the mouse up and down the keys to fire off the kit pieces (to check what is where), and to move MIDI rows (kit pieces), you can 1) select the piano key (on the left) to select all of the data on that entire row, then 2) shift-drag (to preserve timing) that data selection onto the proper kit piece. When moving that row up/down, it should also be firing the kit pieces it passes over as you do so (be sure Input Echo is on). When working with multiple channels is where that can get tricky (why OMNI is the default mode), but OMNI can also cause grief because every instrument in a project may be fired off as a result.

Another thing to keep in mind is the dB level of that wave form is showing you the input into the FX on that track, not the output level of the FX. If you want to see the wave form of the FX output you would need to Bounce to Tracks (using a new track is highly recommended, so you can see it, then delete it without worry about the original track being affected). If you do a bounce to tracks either the original or the bounce must be muted, or you will insert a +3dB gain across the board from playing duplicate tracks. Another tip (similar to normalizing, but often more surgical), is you can CTRL-Left mouse button drag up/down on a clip wave form ("clip gain") to raise/lower the dB. This only works on the clip being hovered over (regardless if it is selected or not), but has the advantage that it redraws the waveform in real time (very nice feature) and shows you the dB change to the original (left) and the dB change you are making actively (right) in that pop up as you work.

If you insert Monster Drums into an existing song (as a "simple instrument" is probably the best start for you), then set the Output on an existing MIDI drum track to "Monster Drums" in the track view. If Monster Drums is GM mapped (most likely), then your MIDI track will start firing Monster Drums. You can Solo the Monster Drums track to check that out. Be sure to insert Monster Drums first, then it will be seen in the Output field on your existing MIDI track. Just in case your MIDI channels are set to Omni, once you verify Monster Drums is firing properly, you can then also Mute the original drum instrument you were using (so it will not fire by accident).

Waveform has a different workflow and some features are available via 3rd party plugins. It has bundled synths at times which are nice (and I use on occasion... and Fleer just mentioned), but I only ever had 8 and 10. Definitely trial using it first, the workflow kept me from using it personally.

+1, I get a chuckle seeing posts with "I have 150 tracks with 200 FX and my computer is choking." Just because a DAW has unlimited track capability doesn't mean a computer can handle anywhere close to that.

Drop "feedback" from your search, as that is going to rabbit hole you into a dead end. Creative use of LFO and modulators with side chain capabilities will allow delays and ring modulators to communicate on separate tracks. The summed output would then be on the master output (or a buss). Some FX do allow this internally to the plugin (e.g., MXXX) but they are often pricey and not intuitive. I would start simply with your tone generator feeding two Aux Tracks, one with a delay, the other with the ring modulator. The side chain is not to "add" to the signal (traditional feedback), but rather to adjust its performance based on what the side chain is seeing.

Quick search on that says the default location on a PC is "C:\Users\[your username]\Documents\Ableton\User Library" and seems that the files are sorted into subfolders by type, but not sure. Also check the user preferences internally to see if you have them in another location if they are not there. Side note with that... you can also add that folder above to the browser internal to CbB... formats that CbB recognizes can be drag/dropped into a project from that. The "alc" files are the ones CbB would not directly recognize.

Not that it applies to everyone, for sure! But then again it isn't overly "uncommon." Psychology folks like to study demographics; marketing folks try to apply that knowledge. I definitely find it interesting... watching people and their behaviors can speak volumes if you read them correctly. Then again, you can see the antithesis of expectations (in a GOOD way)... Years ago I was shopping around Christmas time with my kids and I suddenly stopped. My daughter could always read me well and asked what was wrong. A woman had walked in who was crippled, but she was smiling so much that she literally glowed. I just told my daughter, "That woman is the happiest person in this store, and she would trade places with anyone in here if she could." It was heartwarming in one respect to see someone beaming who had every right to complain, yet pitiful to think of all of the others who had more than most, but totally unhappy.

Few rarely address this (in general), but it was blatantly referenced in a news article recently and immediately caught my attention when it was said, to the effect of "20 million Boomers have died off in the past eight years with 40 million Gen X'ers rising into the ranks to replace them (with the powers that be having no clue how to communicate to them)." When I was young, I was always trying to figure out my great aunt (then 82) and it wasn't until an intro psychology course that it was said that petulance is obviously associated with children, but at a certain age adults regress to that behavior as well. I was always wondering why I would observe outbursts akin to a 5 yo, then found out that behavior is expected.

It has been so long since I used it I had to look the audio part up. They use the ".alc" format, and there are a few articles about dragging/dropping samples to save to its internal browser (in wav format)... Since that drag/drop functionality is included with the app, it would be worth trying to also drag/drop directly into both Windows Explorer and directly into an open CbB project to see what happens. That drag/drop routine may be scripted to transfer wav files, but not sure.

This is probably the biggest consideration to focus on. Very much like the LABS instruments, the processing is baked into the library, so you do not have the ability to tweak much of it out in many cases. There are older reviews (IIRC, there is a large one in the old forum) that go into more detail comparing libraries, but the advantage of Albion One is you can get a lot of work done with that specifically with fewer tracks, but it lacks the versatility of "fine detail" in certain areas. It can do a lot of higher level composition work fairly quickly.

How many tracks are you talking about here? Every time you double track count (for an identical track), it will add 3dB... 2 tracks = +3dB, 4 tracks = +6dB, 8 tracks = +9dB, etc. That said, if you pull tracks from a commercial master, and normalization raises gain on tracks, it is (most likely) going to sum over 0dB, since that commercial master is probably right on the threshold. Likewise, if you add something to an existing commercial track, you are also going to add gain (and probably go over). Content you have pulled from a commercial track is best tweaked with faders (per track, not all adjusted the same).

Um, that isn't an Amazon link... may be why.

The C drive on the machine does all of the "grunt work" for the system. As long as you have expansion slots, you can test only having one drive out for yourself to see how it suits you (it may be fine), but you may find it better long term to have multiple drives so that the machine can pull more data simultaneously.

Groove clips have the advantage that you can drag the right edge out to insert as many loops as you require, say if you want 32 bars of a 1-bar loop. Again, when you get the results you want, it is often best to bounce that to make it into a single audio file so that you can edit that result as you see fit. There are certain restrictions on editing to a groove clip and this will make sure they don't bite you. Don't be afraid to bounce things. That creates a new audio file of what you have bounced. Cakewalk doesn't delete the original data so it will be in your project audio folder, but depending how complex that data was, you may want to do a Save As... prior to bouncing with a descriptive name, so you can back out of something later on if you need to. Bouncing clips and/or tracks can streamline your work, just realize what each one does for you.

Without details on that error, sometimes simply starting and stopping the transport will allow writing. Another thing to check is that cwp itself, it may have a "read only" attribute assigned to it if it has been moved between drives in the past.

I had to think for a second where I saw this... the one video for MIDI Guitar 2 on Jam Origin website, the guy is using a breath controller in many sections and playing outside to boot. I remembered that part of the video because he is using the same wireless I bought on an impulse buy several years ago now (Xvive U2... was $150 back then and roughly $110 now). Those breath controllers can be a bit pricey, but they appear to have a very nice response to them.

That table is actually way down on my priority list and been on the back burner for 3 decades. I didn't even think to take any pics of the top before I stripped it. It has always been covered with a table cloth and what really bothered me was a sway it always had on the long axis. Even that didn't bother me so much till I got the laser engraver, and the weight of the head forced me to make the sway path of that (like and old dot-matrix printer) go in the most stable direction. Note to self at that point was if I ever touch that table, the first thing it gets is a truss! Since the truss was lily-white, that was where the refinishing came into play. I did take some pics of that, but the base was off and the top was upside down then. I will take more pics as I finish that up... it is actually a set of 3 pieces (table, buffet, and cabinet) I picked up at a garage sale in 1993 IIRC. Old varnish gets a square texture to the surface over time, so the buffet would make a good "before" comparison.... lol... I just remembered the extension leaf is in a closet somewhere... I can put that in when done (I haven't touched that). Quick side note on the finishing... I have always used paint strippers that are nasty (and explosive to boot), so picked up some CitriStrip to try it out. That stuff is friggin awesome!! It actually works on old varnish as fast as anything (5-10 minutes max), and can be left on up to 24 hours to soak in (I just did a repeat application). No fumes, smells nice, and won't catch fire or explode on a pilot light. Works great to get oil-based paint out of brushes after use and cleans up afterwards with simple Dawn.

Did you try bouncing the clip? Some functions are disabled until non-destructive edits are committed.

Truth is when you work something, you often see every square inch of it multiple times over. To put this into perspective for folks... IIRC, those scratches were on the lower edge of the board and near the heel to boot. Not a location someone would see without "examining" it anyway. It is similar to a car in some respects... the "6 foot view" is all most people will ever notice. Unless you post that pic you sent me (zoomed in so only 2 frets were in the frame), chances are no one else will notice it either. We are always our own worst critics.,,, the work you did looks damn nice! I am actually redoing an antique walnut table right now. The original finish was almost "expresso," but that masks the grain, so soon after staining it (and watching that grain disappear back to its "original" look), I immediately wiped the excess off to preserve the grain. For a table top, you want something incredibly thick, so I started with spar varnish, but that dries so slowly that it gathers dust as it goes. I have so much Tru Oil left over that I ended up putting that on with a staining brush to get the thickness I wanted (just need to rough and be sure nothing go embedded between coats). The final polish will be similar to a car after that (why automotive tools tend to find use a lot).... wet sanding, grinding/polishing compound, etc. Automotive paints go on roughly 1.5 mils thick per coat, and rubbing Tru Oil is probably less than .5 mils. The finish on a gun stock is probably 30 mils (guestimate there), so there was no way I was rubbing 60+ coats on a table. Nice thing about Tru Oil is it topcoats itself perfectly, can be put on incredible thin if desired, and polishes up nicely.