mettelus Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 (edited) For those guitarists here that like to tinker, it is worth signing up to StewMac newsletter. I had looked at acoustic kits a long time ago, and they are a bit more complex and pricey; but they sent out a sale newsletter Monday (4/5) and I never really looked at their electric kits, which are pretty impressive. Please note that some of these kits will NOT ship outside of the US, as the only thing they are missing is the logo! The electronic kits are more pre-fab, so is really the assembly/finishing of them. Finishing kits are also 50% off and embedded into some of the kit options, but I wanted to point this out for folks. Example: an "LP-Style" flame top with no finishing kit is $209.99, with a Cherry Sunburst finishing kit is $274.71 (and comes with the stock pickups), which is pretty cheap in comparison to many other options out there (and the necks are already done to boot). The neck being done is actually a HUGE deal, since other options that are less expensive usually have crappy fretwork on them. They have most styles on sale, including acoustics. Edited April 9, 2021 by mettelus 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grem Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 Have often thought of doing a kit over the years. With a quality neck (frets in and finished) it is a very desirable guitar. I bought one from a guy already made with a Performance neck, Floyd Rose Trem, Seymour Duncan and Dimarzio pickups, and had his friend that worked in a body shop paint it with metal flake car paint, (pin stripes and all!!). Great looking and playing guitar. I played it on stage for years and I would work that trem hard!! Looking back on it now I don't know how I didn't break the arm off the tremelo!! Neck never got loose, stayed in tune like you wouldn't believe. So a kit guitar, done right, is a keeper. I still have that guitar! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mettelus Posted April 9, 2021 Author Share Posted April 9, 2021 On each of their guitars there is an Assembly Instructions pdf, so I read the LP one and noticed the "Tools and Supplies" list up front with it. The neck is not totally finished, as it has not been set nor the truss rod adjusted. The assembly notes some sanding, nut slotting, and crown work. Some of the "proprietary tools" they sell are a bit on the steep side (nut slotting files stuck out immediately for me), which have either a cheaper alternative, or straight-up workaround. The ones that came to mind: Feeler gauge (not mentioned in the Tools and Supplies" but is in the instructions) can be bought at an automotive store for around $5 (used for gapping spark plugs). Fretting hammer - can do the same with a claw hammer and small block of wood. Wood on the fret, lightly tap with the hammer. I would also do this before setting the neck, since is easy to rest on something soft but firm (like my legs). Fret Crowning File - theirs is simply a triangular file with the corners ground off, so can modify one yourself. No-chip Countersink (for chamferring bushing holes) - a small strip of 150 grit sandpaper wrapped over the tip of your pinky will do the same thing, just do not ride up on the finish. Nut slotting files - It appears the nut is already pre-slotted, but needs final adjustment. Oddly enough the tools only mention 3 files, but since the nut wears down fairly quickly, you can do the same with an old set of strings (same gauge you will use) and some rubbing compound (essentially a fine sandpaper in paste form - automotive shop again). Need to tape off both sides of the nut, but you can run and old string through it with compound like a very fine coping saw (be sure to angle so the high side is the fretboard... should slope downward slightly toward the pegs). As far as finishes, their lacquer is pretty competitive, but they make a big deal about gloss finishes being a bear (and have a book on it). Tru Oil (used for gun stocks) is a very popular finish (form of linseed oil) that can be put on by hand and built up in numerous layers. Every couple layers it is good to 0000 steel wool slightly, and about 20 layers is what "looks like glass." It will darken the finish ever so slightly, but also has the advantage that to "re-polish" in the future means to simply add another coat or two. I slathered a couple coats with my bare hand on the top step of my basement stairs (redwood) 10 years ago and it hasn't needed to be touched since. I use it on guitars too, but don't walk on them ?. Oddly enough, Tru Oil is the only thing I have EVER been forced to sign receipt for on delivery... I asked the delivery guy why and he said "gun paraphernalia"... I just chuckled and said "Whatever." Another "finish" option, is to get a vinyl print made of any picture/graphic that suits your fancy. Any automotive place that does "car wraps" probably also has the printer for making the wraps. They would need the dimensions of the face so they can properly align/print the "wrap." These are opaque as you have seen on cars (won't see the wood), and go on/come off with a heat gun, but can make anything as intricate as you can imagine (and change your mind later). You will want some base finish under them so that they do not transfer any ink to the underlying wood. The longer they are on, the harder they are to take off... another reason for a finish under them, so if worse comes to worst, you can sand through the vinyl and never touch the wood beneath it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mettelus Posted April 9, 2021 Author Share Posted April 9, 2021 Hmmm, reading reviews from the lowest rating first, the thickness of that veneer was stated as 1mm, which is incredibly thin. It is not a cap, and already bound, so the warnings about not sanding the veneer makes sense now. Some of those reviews are actually concerning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitekrazy1 Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 To me this is like being able to do your own oil changes but prefer to have someone else do it. Squires ad Epiphones are quality. I guess just buy those and change out the electronics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleer Posted April 9, 2021 Share Posted April 9, 2021 Stew Mac? Stew this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grem Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 8 hours ago, Paul Young said: Squires ad Epiphones are quality. I guess just buy those and change out the electronics. Actually, I went to a GC one day just to browse and came across a very pretty white Squire Strat with a maple neck. I played it through a Boogie Mini Recto head with a 1x12 cab with Celestion in it. Anyway, the GC salesman was trying to sell me the amp and cab, but I was so impressed with the Squire that I told him leave me alone, I may not buy the amp and cab, but I ain't leaving without the guitar! I ended up getting them all! When I got the guitar home I did what I normally do, put my strings on it and give it a good clean up. When I took the pickguard off, I was totally blown away that it had conductive shielding paint all on the inside!! Then I noticed that the pickups were Seymour Duncan single coil sized humbers!! I also noticed that the tremolo was a knock off of a Floyd Rose floating trem!! The pickguard was 5 layers, in a type of MOP swirl, definitely not the standard issue on a Squire. Then I got to looking at the paint, this was not a regular Fender white. More of a pearl color. I am even thinking they did some kind of fret work on it also because it is just so smooth!! So I concluded that somebody bought a Squire, fixed it up, then sold it to GC for whatever reason. Some salesman over there saw a Squire label on the headstock and placed a $200 price tag on it!! This thing plays like a dream!! Sounds fantastic!! It will never leave my possession I can tell you that! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mettelus Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 Oddly enough, these went out of stock shortly after the OP, and they didn't come back in stock until about a month ago. The notification went to my spam folder, so I didn't get to work on it until a couple weeks ago. Overall the wood for this is very good, very little fret touch up required (just the sharp edges), neck glued in with ease, etc. The binding had vertical "nicks" in it which I first thought might be a blade, but seems more an extrusion issue with the machine that made it.... but easily sanded out. The veneer is actually around 4mm thick, so 400 grit works on the flame maple to smooth it out. More than anything, this kit is a "wood finishing project." I assume the electronics are the cheapest one can get, but will finish the assembly with the stuff it came with first pass and see how it does. I got the cherry burst finishing kit (vintage amber and cherry red), which turned out well since I wanted it more orange... easy to mix the two on the surface. I just put the first coat of sealer on it, but will check back on progress as it goes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarine Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Stop being so cheap. All you need is this book, $2000 worth of tools, 300h of your time, and one amputated finger. Most importantly, that shitty guitar will be yours. Imagine how proud your wife will be. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackson white Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 StewMac sounded a bit pricy, got me to revisit a wip (baritone conversion for a Tele) and checked Warmouth to see prices about twice what I recall from less than 2 years ago! Bought a Tele in the same time frame for about 1/2 the current price of the neck and even then was questioning the value (wisdom) of such a project. @sarine sounding like a keyboard player but you may have a point ?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grem Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 31 minutes ago, jackson white said: sounding like a keyboard player but you may have a point ?. LOL!! @mettelusYou got me looking at the 335 kit!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarine Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 6 hours ago, jackson white said: @sarine sounding like a keyboard player but you may have a point ?. Mind you, I play piano, not keyboard (important distinction) - but hey, just what I would expect a guitar player to say. I recently picked up guitar (and made some sounds), and it is definitely the more difficult instrument to learn and play well, which is why I'll make sure to use every opportunity to decrease guitarists' happiness. I'm not jealous, I just think it's Zen. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mettelus Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 Camera on phone makes everything brighter than it really is, so will have to wait on those, but first two coats of clear are on. 6-8 more coats and a couple weeks to cure. The finishing kit has enough in it to do three guitars; wasn't expecting that. The whole point of these is so they are custom. Hardware/electronics are easily replaced, so all that matters is the wood. Interesting thing with these cheaper pups is you plug in and sounds vintage. Newer high-end pups need to be rolled off. Let's see... tools and extras used so far... 6" clamp, Gorilla glue, two pieces of scrap wood, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper, lacquer thinner. Drill, screwdrivers and soldering iron should be it for the assembly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackson white Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 16 hours ago, sarine said: Mind you, I play piano, ... recently picked up guitar (and made some sounds), and it is definitely the more difficult instrument Maybe, but have you ever tried to build a piano from a kit? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mettelus Posted November 19, 2021 Author Share Posted November 19, 2021 (edited) One BIG consideration with this kit (especially in colder weather) is that lacquer needs to be warm to go on well. Definitely have an area that does not share air with your living space (that can be heated) when it is cold outside. Lacquer fumes are rather nasty, and it sputters rather than sprays if it is not warm. Edited November 19, 2021 by mettelus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mettelus Posted November 25, 2021 Author Share Posted November 25, 2021 (edited) Quick followup... I do not have enough patience to wait 14 days for the clear to cure... it can cure when assembled and I will final polish it later. It is assembled and tested, will put comments on that below: Wood - China has mahogany reserves, so some of the best mahogany on the planet comes from there, especially if you want one-piece bodies (this is not). The mahogany from there also tends to be lighter in my experience (less mineral content). This guitar is structurally sound with great sustain and play-ability. Edit: I grain-filled the mahogany which ended up being a mess... it is simply dust, so removed that all and proceeded without it being filled. Without using the filler, it will require more coats of clear to get the glass-smooth surface. Veneer - There are pinch marks on the tail and narrow points on the body from when this was clamped down. I did not go to town smoothing this (the clear can be smoothed instead), but what this does is take more stain than the rest. In hindsight I didn't need to be as dainty with the veneer... a neat trick is to dust coat the surface, then sand the color all off with 600 grit. However... this veneer is only 4 mils thick, and when wet sanding the surface, the water did soak under the veneer in the area of the holes. Solution to this is not wet sanding at all... sand with 400-grit and 600-grit (for color coats), then when clear is on 600-grit, 1500-grit, 2000-grit... then use finish polishing compound for cars, then car wax (ONLY on the final clear coat!!... the clear will not stick to wax!). Frets - I didn't touch the frets and was sort of shocked that they are leveled (only tapped them with a mallet to ensure seating). One has a slight buzz, which can easily be taken down with 600-grit sandpaper. I did not adjust the truss rod after assembly, only made it straight as an arrow after gluing the neck in. These are standard profile Gibson (I put bass frets in myself), but are fine for short term. Nut - The nut is a little high. For anyone doing this, do NOT buy fret files... the way to deal with this is to loosen the strings and knock the nut off (it is superglued, so taps free easily). Sand the wood smooth, then use a file on the back of the nut to lower the height and check it at times by stringing it back up. This keeps the curvature of the nut and prevents grooves from losing that arc. When done, superglue it back in. Wiring harness - This caught me offguard at first, it is totally "unconventional"... basically vintage, with bleed circuits on the tone pots. I had to force myself not to pass judgement when I saw this and ran with it how it was (even using all of the wire). There is little room to play at the pots themselves, but they have excess wire, so using the entire lengths gave me a rat's nest in the cavity. I didn't foil the cavities at all, and no issues; however, if anyone opts for split coils, definitely copper foil the cavities. If anyone gets this kit, the wiring doesn't have instructions, and StewMac wants you to buy their video set. PM me and I can walk you through that harness. I think it was 11 solder joint to complete "as is." Pickups - These are essentially Epiphone pickups... the neck is fine, but the bridge is muddier and weaker than I want. This could be the pickup or pots, but I glanced up at the Epiphone 335 I have, and I did replace that bridge with a 30-year-old PAF Pro (is black so looks like the pickup is missing on the tobacco burst). @Grem this reminds me... if you are going to make a 335 kit, wiring through the f-holes is a PITA... easiest way is to first use a magnet to run string on a needle, then tape that to the wires. This guitar kit came with (nasty, i.e., pre-corroded) 9s, but they pulled a lot more harmonics and sustain than I expected. Bridge/saddle - This thing is a piece of meat!... it seems like chrome-plated pot metal, and the screw slots are not deep enough to attack at the odd angle required. Setting what intonation I did was a PITA, and the slot on one is already marred. I have already been looking at a Wilkinson locking roller bridge to replace this (my Epiphone has brass hardware!... unfortunately it is easy to chrome-plate pot metal... when you buy brass you know it is brass.) Bottom line - This kit has "what matters" (i.e. the wood/neck) to make it usable for long term. If looking to make it into a go-to guitar, it will need pots, pickups, and bridge at a minimum. For me, I need to 1) lower the nut (free), 2) replace the bridge pickup (maybe both) ($30-$60), 3) replace the bridge ($20), and 4) replace the pots (possibly wiring) ($12). From my experience, pots are common replacements even in "good" guitars," so not a big deal. Tips and hindsight - Pre-coloring... Sand the mahogany near the binding to get these smooth (there is a small lip there, and the binding is wavy on the surface), then is much easier to get color off the binding if not masked well later on without taking color off the wood. Dust coat the veneer with color, then sand it all off (400/600 grit at most, nothing harsher)... this will give a smooth wood with no pits. No wet sanding (the glue in the holes will absorb this and start to warp up, even when you get to the clear coat sanding). The color kit that came with this had enough to do two guitars (3 cans of clear); the clear StewMac sells goes on very nicely. The lock washers for the pots/switch cannot be used (cannot get a full thread on the nuts)... I only used the top washers and nuts for these. Wrap tape on a drill bit to know depth... I went with the recommended depth for each screw from the assembly manual. Tools I used (not included): 400, 600, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper Masking tape Screw driver set Drill and bits (I think 1/16th was the biggest used) Lacquer thinner (to soak the spray nozzles in). Be careful with this... it is highly flammable Mallet (rubber/plastic) for frets and stop bushings Hammer - had to use this on bridge bushings, BUT... can unscrew the stop stems and swap them to get these in Finish polishing compound Soldering iron with a temperature knob and solder. I got an iron for $20 years ago... pre-tin the tip (helps with heat transfer, and due to the odd angles from the harness I ended up pulling solder on the tip then adding wire (over half of these required melting existing solder on that harness) Small eye bolt - I ended up using one from a door hook set to hang the guitar for spraying (where the strap lock went afterwards) Again, if anyone has questions on a kit, shoot me a PM. I think the fun of these is that they are original... you can do what you want and make it yours. I did not modify the head stock (yet), but there is room to play there as well. I have 6 coats of clear on mine, so can play with logos till the cows come home and never need to refinish it. Edited November 26, 2021 by mettelus 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grem Posted November 26, 2021 Share Posted November 26, 2021 22 hours ago, mettelus said: this reminds me... if you are going to make a 335 kit, wiring through the f-holes is a PITA... easiest way is to first use a magnet to run string on a needle, then tape that to the wires. WHAT!!!???? There is no 'back plate' on a 335? Will have to look a little more closely at this before I jump!! thanks for the heads up. Good looking guitar. Not bad at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mettelus Posted November 26, 2021 Author Share Posted November 26, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Grem said: WHAT!!!???? There is no 'back plate' on a 335? Will have to look a little more closely at this before I jump!! thanks for the heads up. That would be a big negatory on that one, good buddy. Definitely check out the build instructions on these kits before buying. Page 14 of the pdf on that page is the reality check for you: "Install the harness There is no cavity access on this guitar, which means you will need to feed the components in through the treble side F-hole. Fish the neck and bridge leads and string ground out of the body and solder them in place following the diagram. Once soldered it's time drop the controls into the guitar and then up through the mounting holes. This is a tricky job, our #0255 Archtop Helping Hand and #0107 Jack Installation tool make easy work of it. Another method is to first tie strings or rubber bands to the shafts of the pots and switch and pull them up through the mounting holes. For help with this technique, see our Trade Secrets article “Fishing a volume control out of a semi-hollowbody for soldering.” Once the switch, jack and pots are secured install the knobs." A small piece of metal (i.e., even a needle) on dental floss can be fed through the pot/jack holes and out the f-hole. A small magnet will let you grab them a lot easier. I would run a couple feet of floss first and tie them off to things that cannot fall through the holes. Even doing this and tying them to the pot shafts requires a little finagling to get the pot vertical (can push the wire as well). If you build this, definitely get new pots so you only do it once. In reality it is not too terrible, but when you finish you feel like you deserve a medal in perseverance! When I was testing the LP out, I looked at that PAF Pro for a second then remembered what it means to take that out... screw that, lol. Quick edit: Just realized the "Set the Intonation" on page 16... that bridge is a piece of meat, so I would not recommend it if it is identical to the one I got (probably true). Also, the bigger gap to the screw heads is from the stop side, so I would recommend installing the bridge backwards (screw heads toward the stop). That picture is misleading... those slots are shallow, so the angle he is using on that screwdriver will strip the slots easily. Plus the pickup ring cannot be lowered, so again the best attack angle is from the stop with the bridge backwards from that picture. My Epiphone 335 bridge is brass with deep slots, heads on the stop side - never had an issue with that one! Edited November 26, 2021 by mettelus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mettelus Posted December 10, 2021 Author Share Posted December 10, 2021 (edited) Finally... Wilkinson Roller Bridge ($33) and DiMarzio Super Distortion ($74). The high E broke (originally 9s) with all of the cycles playing with bridge/nut, so put 10s on it. After assembly, the fret buzz was worse than I expected, so I had to do the fretwork (16" radius block and crowning file... two more tools needed, but I already had both). I took that opportunity to redo the nut* and set the neck perfectly straight. Plays perfectly; the Super Distortion is a bit more bassy than I prefer but is a nice pickup. I may change that out in the future. The neck has absolutely no relief on it (why I used 10s) and has incredible action now. *For the nut... A set of feeler gauges that can be taken apart is the best way to do this: With the neck strung, measure the gap on the first fret for both the low E and high E (mine were .029" and .032") Loosen the strings and tap the nut free. On a flat surface (counter works great), lay 400 grit sandpaper sanding side up... gently sand off the superglue dabs on the nut (face and bottom). Sit the nut on the counter, and separate the gauges... you want the low E at .020", and the high E at .012"... so you need the delta from the first measurement. My low E needed to be .009" shorter (to be .020" after)... so laid the .009" guage on the counter, and used a pencil to mark that end. My high E needed to be .020" shorter (to be .012" after)... so laid the .020" guage on the counter, and used a pencil to mark that end. Using the sandpaper again, I genlty worked the bottom of the nut until the ends were at the pencil marks (will be tilted so the high E is lower). Gently scraped superglue from the neck, and superglued the nut back in, waited 15 minutes and restrung it. Edited December 10, 2021 by mettelus 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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