mettelus

Have you tried using another browser? Also, if you click on the missing ones do they show up in the text field? It seems more like your browser is not refreshing the emoji window, but not sure the "why" to it.

+1 to the mobile phone/tablet idea, especially when "Please remember that the idea behind this is to get my ideas down wherever I am on our property (or just to practice) and not to mix or record entire songs." is on the table. Some ideas come and go in under a minute, so the least complex, quickest, and usable solution is the best. Lugging around things will get old fairly quickly, especially with needing to set it all up just to use them. If you want to capture things on the fly, a cell/tablet is the most convenient, and there are plenty of apps out there to choose from. Side comment specific to the above: For sketching ideas, even a single track is often useful... you can hum/sing/beatbox things, transfer those to a DAW when you are back at one, and embellish them rather quickly with creative use of filters and audio-to-MIDI conversion (if driving a VSTi). Also, depending how far away you are straying, wireless systems have come a long way (and you can remote control a DAW if within range). I use an XVIVE U2 for playing outside and it is pretty reliable up to about 50' or so.

Glad to hear! Using your interface and a DAW is perfect for setting PUPs up properly. I typically have the PUP pretty close to the high E string so using the same picking pressure you can see where that reads (DAW meters have better resolution) and pluck the low E and adjust the low end of the PUP down till it is "relatively" close to the same value (it will always have more power because low frequencies do that, but you don't want them "wildly" different).

Be careful with lumping "humbuckers" into one bin. They are not all created equal and string type, gauge, and proximity to the magnet(s) all contribute to their output. Mine "will" use the INST input at about the 9 o'clock position (just off "zero"), but that gives very little play with the input gain before hitting extremes. Again, using the LINE input if your pickups run hot (some "57" PUPs have far higher output than the originals) isn't a bad thing, and if you are truly running MIC/INST inputs that are weak (some dynamic mics fall into this category), you will want that sensitivity for when you need it. As I mentioned before, if you are seeing this only on your E/A strings, you are probably running heavy gauge strings and have the pickup too close to them. That can also cause harmonics on those strings to override higher strings, which is why shifting to LINE input and tweaking pickup height (so the hi/low Es are "close") is a better start. If you need to use LINE inputs to accommodate your guitar that is not a bad thing, as long as it picks up single notes and folks chords equally well for mixing purposes.

A couple quick things with this. First, lower frequencies have higher power, so recessing the top end of the pickup is a good way to equalize the power distribution for all of the strings. Using an AI/DAW combo works great for this, since you can check levels real-time while tweaking. You really want the cleanest output possible and distribution across the strings as even as possible. Second, like you, I have an older Saffire that is easily overdriven on INST settings with my main guitar (too sensitive and far too little wiggle room to work with... can even hear it on zero gain), so I actually use the LINE setting when recording that guitar (the gain needs to be at roughly the 3 o'clock position in LINE mode). That gives much better control of the input gain, and zeroing the gain actually mutes the guitar. I would start by shifting to LINE mode first and see how that works, then while at it tweak the pickup height to even out the power across the strings (my pickups have a visual tilt to them because of that tweaking).

I wouldn't recommend something physical for ear wax removal due to the risk of rupturing the drum. They also sell liquid kits. Debrox uses carbamide peroxide, but hydrogen peroxide works just as well (although the spray bulb from a kit is useful for rinsing). H2O2 actually dissolves the outer wax layer (can hear it fizz), so if there is a physical plug in your ear it will come out in one lump. It is also a good way to monitor buildup (no fizzle, no wax), but not something to daily or even monthly (depends on the individual). As that really falls in the medical realm, it is worth asking your doctor about. Physical instruments make me cringe, and I have not seen one designed yet that would remove a plug against the drum without risk. Just be cautious with products out there

Correct. I am not sure why they chose "notch" to describe it since notch has a specific meaning to anyone that uses EQs. Here is a brief article on it and success rates for a few studies that have been done. Quick edit: Just realized there are various methods that employ this same term, and some are, in fact, "notched." There seems to be no definite answer to which works best for whom, so tailoring to what works for you specifically is always best.

I agree, part of that was the time involved with the production (which also included some life-altering events along the way), but was definitely reflected in the studio bill and why they had to sell so many albums to break even. That record in particular has a very complex story behind it, but the video hit on the major points. They didn't mention that "Women" was the first track released and they were worried to even get air time on release (to pay off the studio bill). Flip side on the "time in production" (but also Mutt Lange) was AC/DC's "Back in Black" which was done in 7 weeks. Hysteria was 4(ish) years in the making.

Definitely start with this. The latency adjustment being to a different ASIO "device" is worrisome. If you have lost all audio output and the meters are moving, another thing to check is that the Master Output is assigned to the Focusrite... you can click-drag the bar at the bottom of the left pane of the Track View (or hit that button that looks like an eject button on a DVD player) to expand that section and check where your busses (specifically the Master Output) are assigned.

Cakewalk's AudioSnap functionality includes things like quantization and stretching audio, so when doing those functions even outside of the AudioSnap palette specifically, they may still be registered as such. The cwb format was really more intended to share projects (or archive) without audio edits in them, basically MIDI/tempo data, then all of the audio tracks butted end-to-end. Even things like Melodyne edits (if not bounced) will not be saved in a cwb file, so the cwp format is highly recommended in all things. Back in the day, cwb's were more like "zip files" to conserve space for both saving and sharing, but that need has fallen by the wayside with computer storage and internet bandwidth improvements. There are tricks to reduce cwp size and make collaboration with them easier, but cwb files are no longer considered for that. If you have cwb files now, it is better to open them and save them in cwp format to preserve them. cwb files also had the liability that corruption in the file would make the entire project unrecoverable.

Melda's MNotepad has also been around for years and is part of their MFreeFXBundle.

Before getting carried away with re-recording with some oddball setup, you very much can use pre-recorded tracks and do pretty much anything you want with them. Firstly, anything recorded from a single point (microphone, guitar jack, etc.) IS mono. Secondly, even mono tracks (one single wave form) get processed as stereo as soon as you put a stereo effect on it (just how DAWs work, they need to accommodate the stereo output an effect produces). Couple quick things: Is your track hard-panned to one side? Seems that way, and if it is you can bounce the track (in Track View, menu at top of left pane... "Bounce to Tracks") and choose "Split Mono" in the options to separate the left and right channels into individual tracks. One of them will have nothing in it (because your imported file was hard-panned to one side), so you can just delete that one. That will leave you with the remaining channel as a mono track. Side note: if recording directly into a DAW, the input (often "mono/left") and interleave (mono versus stereo) will affect what the track looks like as you record it. Again, you can change that even after the fact if it is truly a mono signal in the first place. Mono tracks will be processed "straight down the center," unless you pan them or add effects that change the left and right channels (reverbs, stereo FX, there are a lot that do this... most FX have a stereo output, not nearly as many are "mono"). The track can be left "mono" (often preferred) but the output will be in stereo (even if straight down the middle, since both sides will be the same). Easiest way to learn is to try extreme settings with things (knobs all the way to the right or left) and hear what it does. As you get more familiar you will understand things better that way. It might help us to get better clarification of what you are experiencing (both what the original files are, and how they look when you import them). I may have misconstrued what you said, but I also wanted to point out that it is more how you are working with what you have now and learning how things work (some things are "under the hood" as they say, so not always obvious to new folks).

The apex of the zero nut is in line with the tang of the fret, so if it is constructed properly it should be exactly on the end of the fretboard (no change). The StewMac link @Glenn Stanton posted above was the reference where he got it, but in that pic the tang is rolled forward slightly from back pressure by the nut (so is sort of a hybrid between perfectly vertical and the video in the OP). The zero fret has no barbs on the tang, so you can still fiddle with the shelf on the nut to adjust as needed. With softer fretboards, be careful cycling a nut in and out though... you can reinforce it some with superglue just to harden the nut face (I wouldn't glue that fret in, maybe a couple small drops on the nut; the strings do the grunt work holding a nut in place).

I am pretty sure that is a permanent license for last year's version. In the past, when it was a "6 month subscription" only, that was stated pretty clearly in the product description. Corel has made offers of last year's version of things frequently in the past in hopes to get them to upgrade to the current version (so they are definitely valid serial numbers, but for last year's version). Side note: it also seems the "upgrade" to 2025 is subscription only... I cannot find a "one-time" upgrade price for 2025 (might be buried someplace, but not easy to find).

Having to reinstall Windows is very rare these days. Windows has built in tools to verify system files are intact and will repair them as needed. I would always start there first if you ever have concerns that the system itself may be having issues (across multiple programs). This is a good reference article for using both SFC and DISM. Read down through that (it explains how to open the command prompt in case you are unclear). The two commands most important are for SFC (system file checker), which will auto-repair (it it can): sfc /scannow And DISM, which verifies your installed version of Windows with what it should be from an online version. To automatically fix any discrepancies the "RestoreHealth" switch will repair any discrepencies (you need to be online for the image to be compared): DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth That is also typed into the box insert in that article. That article has been useful, so they archived it, but also converted its formatting to "just text" which might confuse you, but it is still readable as an article. I boldfaced the actual commands you would type into the elevated command prompt window for you above (can copy/paste those into the command window also to save typing). **** I would start with the above first before digging into other things, or "deleting everything and starting again" (that is RARELY ever needed) *** Side Note: Going forward, a "disc image" of your OS drive is a better recovery method many times. Something to research when you have the time. It basically makes a Xerox copy of your C drive that you can restore if needed. There are free programs that will do images, and more accurate than Windows variants (rather than try to "undo" system changes, it actually replaces the C drive with a Xerox copy of itself when you knew it was "good").