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Everything posted by Amberwolf
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over at another forum (for ebikes, but i've been there a decade and a half and post a lot of different things there) someone pointed out that their eq/spectrum analyzer shows lots of content in "all" my stuff at 20hz and below, and said that nothing will ever play that back and you couldn't hear it if it did, so there's no reason to have it there since it just takes up bandwidth/power away from the rest of the song. so i looked at the master bus wiht voxengo span, witht eh lowest low setting it has of 5hz, and it shows there is some stuff but the spectrum doesn't look anything like what their image shows, it shows it rolling off down there but their image shows it flat / going up. i think tehyre using fabfilter q-something. either way i went ahead and stuck the sonitus 6-node eq in there and set all the nodes for a high q 24 and -18db for a steep notch to get as surgical as i could, and stacked the bands from the zero end to 20hz, so it should be completely taking out the whole area from just above 20hz on down without taking much above that. span doesn't show any difference with it in the masterbus (span is the last thing in the entire chain and bus path), and even if i insert the same eq setup into every bus, it doesn't change the span readout or the waveforms on the buses which are realtime drawn by the playback. i can't hear a difference either but i'm sure the vizio soundbar i'm listening thru isn't capable of that low a frequency anyway (nothing is from what he said, though i think that systems with subs liek the one used to assault my neighborhood with by the partiers yesterday/today can). i know hte eqs are working because if i take their master gain down it drops the whole output down. have to use the steep notching stacked up because the lowpass fliter or the shelving modes have a nonchangeable very low q and they roll off lots of stuff way too much above the center frequency, up to 50hz or more above the point it is flitering, and that's with the q at 2. if i up the q it doenst narrow the filter, it just greatly *increases* the output in the octave or more above the filter frequency, so i cant' really use the lp or shelf modes for this; they take too much out and/or change the whole balance too much even using just one band. i'll have to load up the exported wave file from the master bus into audacity where i can access other newer stuff like filtron and see what that will do (though it's already past the multiband compressor at that point) but if anyone here can help with advice or explanations, i'm all ears.
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thanks for listening and replying! what specifically do you mean by brigthening up the vocals? someone else suggested taking out the low ends whihc i tried but it takes away the character of the vocals when i do that. so if you can give me specifics things to try i can see how they work with what i've got. the only parts generated by midi in this one are the synth bassline and the three different strings used to back the vocals up and fill them in here and there (they also back / fill the bassline here and there, along with a mutated vocal clip set). all the percussion is trimmed from and built out of assorted percussion loops that are not actually meant to go with each other. i'm not sure which one is the slap / wood block that you're referring do. there is a clap in some sections, whcih seems to have about four different variations within the clip used to create the sections in the percussion track with it. if you can tell me which sound it is somehow, or at which times it is a problem, i can alter the sound at those specific times to make them different, either by clip gain envelopes or other gain/cut means, or effecting them to change their sound (such as by splitting those soudns out of the clips into their own, then using various clip properties to stretch or shrink or tune / detune them slightly. i was going to check out the tracks you've posted but they seem to be deleted / removed from the threads? what do you think is not as good about your tracks?
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What's the best way to soundproof my windows permanently?
Amberwolf replied to T Boog's topic in Cakewalk Sonar
if he dances with a cane really slowly by hobbling across the stage, sure, i can do that, for about two or three minutes, then i gotta go sit on the piano bench and catch my breath. -
new tenth version, i doubled the volume of the vocal tracks, brought the strings up with them but only about half that much, and did some more percussion / etc tweaks (couldn't sleep) 110124 000001 100115P https://www.soundclick.com/amberwolf/?more=14898340 thanks for the reply and the listen and the comparison! i haven't heard their stuff since last century listening to musical starstreams on the broadcast radio stations.... (along with (pardon spellings) kitaro, andreas wollenweiter, david lanz, suzanne ciani, ray lynch, tangerine dream, yanni, and many others i can't recall the names of atm, most of which i haven't even thought about in so long i don't recall the last time....)
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What's the best way to soundproof my windows permanently?
Amberwolf replied to T Boog's topic in Cakewalk Sonar
haveta make that night stallions and wolf....or maybe herd and pack....or packherd, there we go pakheard, or hearit packherd so we can spoof the brandname. sorry my brain is goo so not coming up with anything good atm. you'll have to do the singing cuz i can't carry a tune in a locked steel box. that's what the computer is for....so i can make vocal stuff like these with someone else's voice https://www.soundclick.com/amberwolf/?more=14898248 https://amberwolf.bandcamp.com/track/the-moon-it-read-to-me-and-it-was-bright otherwise you're stuck with crap like these https://amberwolf.bandcamp.com/track/back-to-the-world https://www.soundclick.com/amberwolf/?more=13530596 https://amberwolf.bandcamp.com/track/drying-tears we'll mount hte pa on their front door, facing inward, and turn it up so we can hear it fine in here, right? -
version 9, some fixes based on above feedback, realigned some percussion, etc. 110124 000001 100110O https://www.soundclick.com/amberwolf/?more=14898248 thanks for listening and replying! i did some fixes based on the above. which hi things sound harsh? i havent' yet tried pushing the low end and vocals up and the rest back yet, am still exhausted from the last more-than-a-day of being physically beaten by the bass from the assholes' party down the street, which started around 6pm and went on and on thru the night, turning the music part down some around 2am but continuing with the earth-shaking bass. went quieter later until by daylight it was just the bass thumping enough to be felt but not shaking everything, and it continued that way the rest of the day utnil a couple hours ago they finally stopped. honestly surprised that they didn't keep having the party all night tonight too but i'll take what peace i can get. when i have recovered enough from the sonic assault of the last day, i will take a listen, i found the whole album on youtube. will probably be a while though; i'm just too stressed to listen to anything that i didn't make myself (because i can predict every note as it sounds) and even that's tough, which is why i couldn't do more with this track today.
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and what kind of copy protection does it install along with the plugin?
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What's the best way to soundproof my windows permanently?
Amberwolf replied to T Boog's topic in Cakewalk Sonar
i have the other problem, with people being so distracted by my amazing musical genius and forgetting to even notice i exist. -
if you're using synths rather than just pure audio recordings, it's likely that one or more of them doesn't correclty respond to the stop / all notes off command / other note-off methods; it seems to be a common problem especially with certain companies (the rgc audio stuff I've got for instance). there should be options for what to do when stopping and/or using hte panic button, though i don't know where they're located in the menus. if you can find an option to send a note off for every single note, and/or a note-on with zero velocity for every single note, then it should turn the synth off. i don't have all those options in my old sonar, so in the main synth i have trouble with (zeta / zeta2), i leave it's ui open but mostly off screen so i can still click on it's arpeggiator enable/disable button--toggling that (whether or not it's being used by the synth) shuts all the stuck notes off in it...but i have to do this for every instance of the synth i have in the project that gets stuck at that point in the project. in my case, the stuck notes happen if i do not press stop where there are *no* midi notes in a track feeding one of these synths. if there was a note playing, it will get stuck. sometimes it's too annoying to keep having to toggle the arp buttons, so for any track i'm not presently editing i will freeze them, then freeze the one i'm editing when i need to edit anohter track and unfreeze that one, etc.
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What's the best way to soundproof my windows permanently?
Amberwolf replied to T Boog's topic in Cakewalk Sonar
when it's bad it's bad, when it's not it's fine but when it's bad it's really really bad i'd probably need a totally isolated house internal structure plus mass dampers and bass traps to begin dealing with the problem, but i'm not sure that would solve it all; it's not even "sound" that is the problem, it's physical shaking and movement if people would just have even the slightest (positive) thought for others (instead of complete lack of caring or even active hatefullness) it wouldn't be necessary -
are the drum tracks being recorded as midi, or as audio, or both? if they are being recorded as both, if hte midi is still playing back the drum synth while the audio tracks of the recording of the drum synth is also playing, it would potentially double the output
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What's the best way to soundproof my windows permanently?
Amberwolf replied to T Boog's topic in Cakewalk Sonar
REDRUM ⛏️ 6+hours since they started and just getting louder all the time; it's after midnight here -
you're welcome. my midiplus 2x2 has been working perfectly since first connecting it, though i don't push it nearly as hard as i used to push the studio128x back when i was all external hardware sounds. i didn't think it should be possible to make something for midi so cheap that it actually didn't work, but somehow a bunch of companies have managed to do it. :rolls eyes: i've had the cheapest possible joystick-to-midi adapters back when computers still had joystick ports, and even those worked perfectly fine, even with some pretty crappy soundblaster-clone cards. 😆 ( think i still have those in a box along with a 'real" joystick-port midi box from advanced gravis; it might have come in a box with one of their cards or maybe it was a turtle beach card; back in win95 days i think. maybe win3.1. 😊 i think it even came with a game control pad too; probably don't still have that though) wow, a quick google to find the image above also found that there are still sites supporting that ag card http://www.gravisultrasound.com/
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I guess that's why my goodwill-sourced wired rockband drums don't work very well? 😆 (I can't play them (well, anything) for real, but I sometimes use a goodwill-sourced yamaha dd55...someday i need to take it apart and see if waht the problem with the upper left pad is, though, since it's way less sensitive than the others.
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for years, where i work, we've received some stuff (that we're not supposed to put on the shelf) for the holidaze sneazon in the middle of summer or earlier. but we start getting serious shipments of it before halloween, and often the halloween stuff starts going clearance even before that week. 😕
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part of that isn't just the caps; it's the other parts not being chosen or the circuit not being designed so that it may survive / "work" even when the caps no longer perform as well as designed (since all liquid electrolytic caps will eventually fail from electrolyte decomposition and/or fluid loss; they all have a time-rating for how many hours of operation they're guaranteed (or expected) to work for under a specific operating temperature or other conditions). but without well-made caps, anything that does require them will not work correclty or at all, and the worse they're made the faster that will happen. i used to have some test equipment (oscilloscopes, nixie-tube multimeters, etc) that were made before i was born, more than 5 decades ago (one of them would be more than 60 years old now if it was still around), and they all still worked without any part replacments. before i lost them in the housefire a decade ago i had planned to go thru the ones i used most and test caps, etc., and replace anything that was out of spec, see if they got better readings afterward, but that didn't happen. but i've also had stuff of all types from the 50s, 60s, 70s, and 80s that required cap replacements to be usable. my 1930s simpson multimeter doesnt' have any caps, just resistors, so it seems to be ok. (though it requires a diy battery since they don't make the kind it uses anymore :lol: ).
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version 8 with the changes above. https://www.soundclick.com/amberwolf/?more=14896411 trying to figure out kerovee to more naturally retune the segments of the vocal clip samples that are a different note / key than the song is at that point, since the present retuning is very unnatural, having been done by just splitting that section of the clip off and using the clip properties note +/- to set it to a different note. (which works fine to test them, but in most places isn't suitable for the result I'm after.
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What's the best way to soundproof my windows permanently?
Amberwolf replied to T Boog's topic in Cakewalk Sonar
that's what the big foam blocks that used to be couch cushions do for me in my windows. (sometimes canine destruction leaves useful remains) -
Your post doesn't say what monitors you have, so we don't know what connectors they have. This page found with google via your interface description https://www.native-instruments.com/en/products/komplete/audio-interfaces/komplete-audio-6/ has this image Which shows both digital and analog options for output. Are you using an analog cable, or digital? If analog, are you using the front or rear connectors to go to the monitors?
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Then I'd guess my issue is specific to the laptop. I'd have to take both drives out and put them in a desktop motherboard with enough SATA HDD connections to mount both simulaneously directly to it and retry. It's certainly possible--quite a few manufacturers did stuff outside their normal ways since that started (some still are, and some have had to redesign products because of "permanent" unavailability of some components). None of them are likely to publicly discuss any of that; it might open them up to legal issues (don't know how) and that's a can o worms companies never want to open.
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I'm not an expert, but I can't imagine any way to make that happen. If they want it to sound like a cohesive mastered stereo track they're going to have to actually cohesively master it as a stereo track. Not really any way around doing work to get work done. If you process all the stuff as individual tracks it won't sound like (probably not anything like) the full masterbus output would, for reasons others stated. You should just tell the client the reality of how it works, and let them decide what work they are willing to do, and give them what will let them do that. If they don't accept that, well, can't help everyone.
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Yeah, I've dealt with bad caps problems since the 90s because companies kept making cheaper and cheaper stuff; it just got exponentially worse when they did the bad formula thing. (been doing this stuff since the 80s ::creaking sounds:: 😆) When I was in still in computer repair the first several years of this century (still wierd to say that) we had many many blown caps on all sorts of things (motherboards, psus, inside monitors, etc) and way too many devices were destroyed by the cap failures (unfiltered spikes taking out other parts after the caps stopped working, even when they didn't explode). I lost count of the number of things I was given as junk that just replacing the caps would fix. (today that includes things like ebike controllers, too, but that's because they often use parts not rated for the usage, like caps not made for high temps put inside motor controllers that are inside other things so all the heat stays right there and cooks the caps). The really sad thing is that a couple decades later, there are STILL companies using those bad parts to build things with, as they still keep getting re-injected into the supply chain. Plus there are companies still making crappy caps, though those are easier to avoid by always using good brands like Rubycon, Panasonic, etc, and only buying them from reliable suppliers like Mouser, etc that actually check their supply chains. Not to mention the bajillion counterfeit parts out there. Unfortunately on this it's not (just) a cap problem (that would have been too easy; the cap failed and then other stuff died downstream), it's the main switching transistor, plus the resistors that fed it's gate, some diodes (I think; hard to tell from the remnants), and some other bits. There's not enough left of some of the parts to tell for sure what they were, much less which part number or value. Some bad pics of some of the carnage are attached; I apparently don't have them all on the computer. I poked around for a schematic or service manual, but this old Westinghouse (IIRC) didn't get one uploaded that I could find so far. IIRC it was made in 2013 or 14, but I'd have to go look in the other room at it's case to be sure.