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My New Computer Build


cclarry

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Well...I've gotten about 8 years out of my current FX-8300 system, which is pretty dang good,
but it's starting to get a bit flakey, so I figured it's time to upgrade.  Here's what I'm going
to:

Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 Ghz
ASUS TUF GAMING X570-PLUS WI-FI AMD Socket X570 AM4 ATX M.2 Desktop Motherboard
VICABO WINDWALKER F06 CPU Cooler Dual Fan Heatsink Radiator ARGB High Performance CPU Air Cooler, 6 CDC Heatpipes,
Silicon Power 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) 288-Pin XPOWER Turbine RGB DDR4 SDRAM Desktop Memory

A little over $600 for everything.  I couldn't touch an R9 prebuilt for anything close to that price.

Everything else will carry over from the old system.  I'll use my current Graphics card until I can upgrade that. 
I just bought an NVMe 2 Tb Drive for this reason, because I knew my system was "on the edge", and I have enough
hard drives and SSD's to complete the build.  The REALLY SUCKY part will be "reinstalling everything", which
is always a PITA.  I will clone my OS Drive to the 2 TB NVMe, and hopefully that will "Ease the pain"!
I figure I should be good for another 5 years.

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5 minutes ago, cclarry said:

Well...I've gotten about 8 years out of my current FX-8300 system, which is pretty dang good,
but it's starting to get a bit flakey, so I figured it's time to upgrade.  Here's what I'm going
to:

Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 Ghz
ASUS TUF GAMING X570-PLUS WI-FI AMD Socket X570 AM4 ATX M.2 Desktop Motherboard
VICABO WINDWALKER F06 CPU Cooler Dual Fan Heatsink Radiator ARGB High Performance CPU Air Cooler, 6 CDC Heatpipes,
Silicon Power 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) 288-Pin XPOWER Turbine RGB DDR4 SDRAM Desktop Memory

A little over $600 for everything.  I couldn't touch an R9 prebuilt for anything close to that price.

Everything else will carry over from the old system.  I'll use my current Graphics card until I can upgrade that. 
I just bought an NVMe 2 Tb Drive for this reason, because I knew my system was "on the edge", and I have enough
hard drives and SSD's to complete the build.  The REALLY SUCKY part will be "reinstalling everything", which
is always a PITA.  I will clone my OS Drive to the 2 TB NVMe, and hopefully that will "Ease the pain"!
I figure I should be good for another 5 years.

Don't. That is the most overpriced component these days.   I still have a 9800GT running.  If I ever do a budget build I will probably use an AMD APU.

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12 minutes ago, cclarry said:

I figure I should be good for another 5 years.

I think you'll be fine for longer than that unless you want to do something extreme. Just get a new GPU when the prices get more reasonable.

I also got a Ryzen 9 5900X  and an ASUS TUF GAMING X570-PLUS with 32 GB of DDR4 a year ago. My GPU is a 1060 that I bought used years ago.

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38 minutes ago, cclarry said:

The REALLY SUCKY part will be "reinstalling everything", which
is always a PITA.  I will clone my OS Drive to the 2 TB NVMe, and hopefully that will "Ease the pain"!

Not necessary to reinstall with Windows 10 or above!!! The new hardware abstraction layer allows any existing modern Windows system to boot on any compatible hardware, without any major bumps! All your programs and data should survive the trip! :)

Just clone your drive, plug it in, connect your other drives and boot up! Windows will take a few moments to configure its drivers for the new hardware, then all you will need to do install is the manufacturers custom drivers for your ASUS motherboard, your graphics card, & audio and MIDI devices. Meanwhile the system should be up and running with Microsoft's generic drivers.

I did this a couple years ago with an upgrade to my new motherboard, CPU, and RAM. Works great!

Good luck!

 

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I also went with the ASUS TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi) but I opted for the Ryzen 5600X with the 65w output for less demands on cooling and thus a quieter—as in dead quiet—system. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my venerable GTX 1070 holds out until graphics card prices become reasonable again.

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You don't have to reinstall the OS (for Windows), at least it's extremely unlikely nowadays, unless it's regarding boot settings in BIOS, but I doubt that it is a problem..  The main pain are the license issues of plugins and software.

Just clone the OS drive, put it in your current system and boot from it, unzip chipset drivers, remove current chipset drivers (and GPU  drivers if switching between AMD/Nvidia), put the drive in your new system and boot.

This is what I usually do, sometimes you can get away with not removing chipset drivers or run setup before you switch motherboards.

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1 minute ago, Finnbogi Ragnar Ragnarsson said:

You don't have to reinstall the OS (for Windows), at least it's extremely unlikely nowadays, unless it's regarding boot settings in BIOS, but I doubt that it is a problem..  The main pain are the license issues of plugins and software.

Just clone the OS drive, put it in your current system and boot from it, unzip chipset drivers, remove current chipset drivers (and GPU  drivers if switching between AMD/Nvidia), put the drive in your new system and boot.

This is what I usually do, sometimes you can get away with not removing chipset drivers or run setup before you switch motherboards.

Yep...that's the plan....

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10 minutes ago, cclarry said:

Yep...that's the plan....

Just to be safe, deactivate and move your iLok and Waves licenses back to the cloud, unless you are using hardware dongles.

The other software apps that depend on email/password activations shouldn't be a problem.

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As a reminder, I recommend deauthorizing certain software as even if you clone the O/S drive, some authorisation tools will recognise that the hardware has changed and you will no longer be authorised.
This is an issue for licences that have to be deauthorised on the hardware they are licensed to rather than from any system.
iLok is one that have this clause I think and you can lose an activation unless you go back and do it on the original hardware/OS.

(I was beaten to it).

Edited by Technostica
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1 hour ago, rsinger said:

After 8 years there's something to be said for a clean install. Clean registery and so on. Just sayin.

That's what I do, takes about a week but the performance is better it seems. Kind of like spring cleaning, only the software, plugins I use or want get installed..

Edited by Hidden Symmetry
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I got a new laptop a couple months ago so I went thru the process of uninstalling and reinstalling. My old laptop was about 10 years old. It wasn't as bad as i thought it would be, but it's easier with a new laptop than rebuilding.

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My power supply arrived today....850 W 80 Gold Plus Modular and it weighs a TON!
I'm really surprised at how heavy it is!  Modular also, so I only have to use what I need!
I got it for 60% off of $170 and I had a $5 Rewards Voucher at Best Buy!

I ordered the rest from Newegg, and I found out a few minutes ago that the CPU is 
going to be a Shell Shocker Deal tomorrow, so I'll get get 14 Day Price Match Refund! YAY!

Edited by cclarry
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LOVE my Ryzen machine that I built two years ago (after a 7 year run with my last one).  No regrets.  Software install was less of a PITA than I expected, and I did do a clean install.  Biggest hassle was iLok software.  I had to ask a couple providers to "re-set" my accounts with them.  iLok said if one company resets, they all do automatically, but a couple stayed locked out for a couple weeks.  I deauthorized everything on my old PC first, but it happened anyway.

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7 hours ago, abacab said:

Not necessary to reinstall with Windows 10 or above!!! The new hardware abstraction layer allows any existing modern Windows system to boot on any compatible hardware, without any major bumps! All your programs and data should survive the trip!

Hell, I managed to take a Windows 7 SSD from an Intel Q6600 machine, put it in a new Ryzen machine and install Windows 10 as an upgrade without a hitch - I was more than impressed.

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I just built a similar system with the 5900x. Went with the Gigabyte wifi motherboard because it had the most standard usb ports and rgb headers, and was cheaper than the Asus, but Asus and MSI were strong contenders. Also put in 32 gb of memory (Corsair Vengeance). Make sure you set the XMP profile in the bios so it runs at the full 3200 mhz.

I went with a CoolerMaster water cooler and it runs dead silent with better temps than a fan cooler. Also is very low profile. I have 7 TB of SSD and a 4 TB backup hard drive with everything running flawlessly. I just used my Windows 10  existing boot drive and made sure to disable all my activations first before swapping out the motherboard. As long as Windows is authorized in the cloud on your account, you can re-link it to the new motherboard.

Last thing, the AMD 5000 series have issues with usb periodically disconnecting. So make sure to update to the latest Agesa bios which is at 1.2.0.7. This did not completely solve my issue run my MOX8 audio through usb, so I added a FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 PCI card and now no glitches. The new system can run 130 tracks now in Cubase no problem versus 20 tracks on my old Haswell i7, so very happy with the 5900x.

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7 hours ago, rsinger said:

After 8 years there's something to be said for a clean install. Clean registery and so on. Just sayin.

You could try this method first instead of a completely clean install, after migrating the existing Windows image to the new hardware build. This can preserve all of your applications and data, while replacing the operating system.

The In-Place Upgrade Repair Install 

  • "It’s little-known and underappreciated, but one can install the same version of a Windows 10 OS onto an existing copy. This uses the Windows installation files in ISO format."
  • "It will systematically replace every operating system file (and move the previous version to a Windows.old folder to which you can roll back if you like (Start 🡪 Settings 🡪 Update & Security 🡪 Recovery 🡪 Go back to the previous version of Windows 10/click the “Get Started” button)."

https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/fix-windows-10-repair-install

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I REALLY didn't want to "build" another system, but there was NOTHING out there worth having
for less than a Grand....and even THAT was far less than I wanted.  A build is always the MOST for the
LEAST, and I've got plenty of that...so it seemed to be the way to go!
I'm getting everything I really wanted also...USB C for when I upgrade my Interface (if ever), M.2
drive slots, and twice my current memory. 

Since my current system is still functional, I plan on fixing it for my niece to have a PC.  I have
a 23" Samsung Monitor in a box in the basement she can use and I also have an i7 System under
my desk that still works, so half of my current memory will stay in my current machine, and
the other half will go in the i7 system, and I'll get 2 systems out of my old one.

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