Alan Tubbs

I replaced my 45 year old Yama amp with a halfler transnova.  A lot punchier than the softer Yama, more upfront.  Like an api preamp.  Interesting.  More difference than I thought. 

There really ought to be a way to do this w/o hacking the registry.

I use a Yamaha pro system 40+ years old.  10 inch woofer and beryllium tweeters.  Needs a new amp, the last time I had it worked on the tech said don’t bother bringing it back in.  He couldn’t believe it was still working.  So they can last (tho a 70s Yama is probably better built than a 90s mackie).  Still, the speakers themselves can last a long time.  Amps? I’m ordering an old transnova to replace the Yama.

many of the studios I’ve used use barefoot speakers.  Great if you can afford it, even the new cheap model.  If not, I’ve been out of the speaker market for so long i couldn’t advise.

The extra resolution of oversampling does help internally when applying effects.  But no hardware captures 64/bit audio.

Love eventide software, too.  Good stuff and  it is affordable when on sale..

Where is the deals section anyway?  Not listed.  Is it in a sub forum?

Looks like it could be a winner.

Audient d44, Tascam 7000, Tascam 20x20.  2 different computers and using the 20x20 as an audient expander via light pipe.

I bet you find some of every interface.

One thing about audio quality the differential between pro and consumer tools these days is it ain’t as large as the old days.  A modern cheap interface is a lot closer in sound to the big boys these days.  You can do quality work with most modern units.  You could in the past too but you needed skill and experience to get good sound from 1/32 of an inch of tape and it still wasn’t the same.

The audio quality is completely dependent upon your audio interface - not just for output but the quality of recording.

in general, similarly priced units preform similarity.  There are only so many ways to make a dollar preamp, and only a couple of chip manufacturers so everyone’s interfaces use the same designs and parts.  Drivers are different, but most are competent these days.

a $100 interface is pretty good these days but have one pre and maybe only one record channel.  The least expensive “ pro” unit is a pci unit from lynx that costs &250 to $400 a channel.  Burls go for $2500 for stereo input and as much as output.

more typically, I use an audient unit.  Good quality ( Burr Brown chips) solid drivers.  You can find their cheaper units reasonable if a few dollars higher.  I’ve used Tascam which are fine, as were Roland interfaces.

one caveat is to use a responsible dealer.  If you do have driver/software problems just switch to another company that your computer plays nice with.  

The whole line of Yamaha mox synths basically have the interface built in.  It works, but back when I had reviewed them, I got it working but mostly used my regular interface.  The latency was ok and was usable but I didn’t want to muck around with it much.

there should be explicit instructions to get it working, which, if I recall involves downloading the driver as above.  I used it as an output but never recorded audio thru the mox to the computer.  But it should be able to do that, just as I recorded the synths output.  I can’t remember about the midi and driving internal softsynths.

Sorry I can’t remember much about the process about getting it hooked up, but you choose  the stienberg drivers in cakewalk.

Haven’t used it but it has some good reviews.  Is it a full voltage tube?

No supervisors here, it is peer to peer.  But some peers are superior than others. 😉

Scook is the man.

Turn the knob on your hardware unit.

Microtech gefell 930.  East German Neumann.  Original M7 capsule like the Neumann 47, 67 etc.  doesn’t give you anything more than what you put in it.  Great replication that works on just about anything.  Right at a grand.

Jesse,  the warm thing is just something to watch.  It can happen but isn’t a sure thing and Warm stuff works great together most of the time.  It helps my chain usually includes an RND portico ii.  On the female vox capture above I had the RND comp set fast like an 1176 (kind of) and went out to the wa2a.  Like I said, gorgeous tone and whenever she pushed her voice it got even better sounding, tube saturation sitting on the edge of distortion but not crossing that  line.

warm brings classic tones to modern recordings at a price many more can afford.  It emulates, not copies the tone which I can live with since I can afford it.  My wife would shoot me if I spent $2-3K on a UA 1176 since I could never recoup that cost as a business.  I’ve got a nice “home” studio, not commercial business.

rock on, Jesse.

@

Their 1176 is probably their best emulation since it is so simple.  I was just listening to an old song with the la2a and I don’t know if I achieved a real la2a sound but the effect is Heavenly.  Just the perfect amount of bloom in the female vox.

if you have only or mostly used transformerless pres etc it is really an eye opening experience to drive better units into saturation.  It is lovely.  The first time I used the 1176 at home I had to smile getting a facsimile of the sound I’d heard on records all my life.

the only negative thing specifically about Warm is their sound, mostly from the similar sounding cinemag  transformer add to the sound.  Warm and  thick sometimes is too much if you use multiple Warm units in-line.

A better amp for $800 or less.  This last yama lasted 45 years and I don’t think I’ve got another 45 in me.😀

thanks

SOLVED,

I had bought Sound Forge 11 but never used it.  It has its own assembler and burning program built in.  Tres cool.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

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Thanks for all the info.  
 

For Disk Makers I’ve just uploaded a finished Cd from architect.  It worked fine and sounded great.  I’ve got today to work on this program.

Sure, windows will burn a usb drive.  I did that after I burnt out the. Internal drive.

I do need a real authoring program for cds for disk makers replication.

thanks

Thanks both.  I went to magix but didn’t sign in..I’ll try that first. 

Another topic done to death.  My 45-year-old amp is dying.  Or one channel.  It was a 10-inch version of the same class as the famous NS 10.  Not the same midrange but is goes much lower and the top end is beryllium sweet (another thing Yamaha can't make for environmental reasons, just like the acid bath paper cone in the NS 10).  The speakers are excellent and the whole system would sale today for 2+K to 3k$.

Yamaha makes a similar class amp these days for $800 bucks or so.  Any better deals to get a professional monitoring system , or an integrated system up from say the Yamaha HS 8 and such?

Thanks for your thoughts

@ 

Yea, I know, but the only cD architect I could find was on Amazon.  It was officially from SONY, so that is good.  I just don't want to spend 112 US$ for a program I've had for 15 years.  My older computer died with the programs on it but I don't think they will authorize tho I have the serial and reg numbers (like Cakewalk used to authorize).

What would be another good program to assemble a CD and why and is it cheaper than $112?

Touchscreens are great but there is no tactile feedback like with a real fader.  That is a problem but touch works well as a controller for xy pads, on off and many other functions.  Mousing is good for small discrete moves.  Computer Keyboard for numbers, names etc.  they all have their place and one can pick and choose the best for your workflow.