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user390096

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  1. If anyone is curious, I found an 18.20 and bought it immediately because these things are hard to find these days as they are mostly back-ordered country-wide (USA). It's up and running as a stand-alone in perfect synchrony with my Apollo Twin TB3 Windows unit. I like that my Apollo has a preset for the 18i20 so that took a lot of the mystery about setting it up. Thanx for everyone's input, I learned a lot.
  2. Thanx for the info. I'll give these a look. I probably have over 300 files that need to be renamed.
  3. Wondering if anyone knows an easy way to rename a whole bunch of backup files that I needed that now contain a section within parentheses of date/time information added on to each file from the Windows built-in backup program. I had a crash and noticed several of my projects totally disappeared but thankfully I found the backups on my dedicated back-up drive. However, the .wav files all have this look now and the CWP doesn't find these files when loading the project: bass, Edit (1) (2020_09_10 11_22_12 UTC).wav where the back-up program added a date/time within parentheses. I want to do a batch rename where I get rid of the parentheses and everything within it so that the files look like this, which is the original look (syntax) and what the CWP is looking for: bass, Edit (1).wav Any ideas? I've looked at a few renaming programs but they give me a headache! Something simple is my goal. Or, I don't mind complicated if I'm given step-by-step instructions. Thanx for looking.
  4. Yes, I've been looking at that one and I own several Behringer products and they all seem very good. But, for me, I like the options of the 18i20 Focusrite Scarlett as it can be used as the main sound-card, or as a stand-alone connected to the Apollo Twin and I want most of the inputs on the back-side but really like 2 on the front, plus it has that "Air" setting which I'm curious about. I've noticed that none of the higher priced units of these type have any compressors at all which I've read on SOS are not really needed these days. So the 18i20 looks like a nice match for me, a recently retired geezer with all day to record and tinker.
  5. Hmmm... I checked out the link and see several scary posts about this possibly being "malicious" software. What's that all about?
  6. Update: Roland responded wrong. They said just unplug my Apollo and use the Octa-Capture to do 8 drum input, duh. I clearly asked them if there is a way to use it as a stand-alone, connect it via ADAT like the Focusrite Octpre, blah blah blah. Guess I'll try again ..........🤨
  7. I'll look and see if the "add drum" buss is obvious.
  8. FYI I just sent an e-mail to RolandUS asking if I can connect the Octa-Capture to the Apollo. I'll update this post when I hear back.
  9. Thanx for the response Mark, The Octa-Capture does have a coaxial RCA SPDIF output that I forgot to mention I have connected via a small adapter box that allows one to connect the RCA on one side and an ADAT optical cable on the other side and then into the optical input on the Apollo, which I've done, but I'm not getting any signal. Also, thanx for the info on MIDI but I already know how to do that. In fact, I just bought an Alesis strike and have converted many of my VST's (SSD5.5, EZ Drummer, Addictive Drums 2) into samples via software called SDSE. I've loaded the samples onto the Strike and then recorded the audio from that whilst simultaneously recording midi and then using the VST's to listen to both versions of the same drum kit, one is "LIVE", and the other midi, and they sound about the same to me so now I have some very nice drum sounds coming out of the Strike. Pretty cool. I'm currently trying out a Fucusrite Octopre Dynamic that works perfectly but I realized I had this Roland Octa-Capture collecting dust and want to see if I can save some money and re-purpose it. If this experiment fails, I'll likely get the Focusrite 18i20 which can be used stand-alone (it essentially becomes an Octopre) and connected to my Apollo via optical. It's a little more affordable and can double as it's own interface if the Apollo bites the dust.
  10. I've got an old Roland Octa-Capture and just learned that it can be used as a stand-alone 8 channel expansion with some "VS" Roland equipment. I want 8 channels to record my Alesis Strike drum module withe the drums split into 8 separate tracks. I've been trying to get it to work with my Apollo Twin that connects via Thunderbolt 3 to my Windows PC. No luck so far even though I am able to boot the computer with both the Roland and the Apollo connected simultaneously as I have the Roland set to "VS Expand" and digital to "AUTO", so there is no conflict as to which unit is the "soundcard". I was hoping to see the Octa-Capture show up in the inputs list in "Preferences" but I don't see it nor do I see any movement of the led's in the Apollo mixer console, however it does show up as a MIDI input device in Cakewalk. Also, I see it in Device Manager under "Sound, video and game controllers", so windows does recognize it and it looks like I'm close to getting it to work but I'm stuck at this point. Has anybody done this?
  11. It worked! Thanx again John. PS I notice it added a "Drum" buss but that's what I wanted so I think it worked perfectly? Is there any downfall to it adding the bus?
  12. Thanx John! I knew the forum would pounce on this seemingly easy topic quickly! I'll give it a try, of course it's not easy until you learn how to do it.
  13. Hi, Just got a Focusrite OctoPre and want to add 8 drum tracks fast to existing project files. Is there an easy way to do this? I imagine I could create a project with just the 8 drum tracks all prepared for the different inputs from the Focusrite and somehow add that project to an existing project but I don't know how to do it or if it can be done. Thanx, Fredrick
  14. Jonathan, your method is working best for me with one additional step (bouncing) and a few clarifications. I'm going to try to detail for others the method that works for me: Render a one track guide track to it's own file that doesn't include the part you want to record, in my case I left out the lead guitar, Then create a whole new project, call it something like "Guitar slow down" and the name of the song, Then drag the guide track into the new project and place it at the very beginning 0:00:00, Then make sure you are in Snap mode and put a marker where the imported section ends, call it "original clip %100" or such. You may need to turn off Snap mode for a moment to adjust the ending of the original guide track to have it match up on a snap line. Then go to the end of the guide track and hold down CTRL+SHIFT and the little icon will change to the "stretch icon" which looks like 2 arrows on each side of a vertical line, Then stretch to the right the entire track or just the section you need slowed down. Make sure you are in Snap mode and stretch it to the right to slow it down, about %125 works for me. If you are just doing a section in the middle of the song and you remove any of the beginning of the song, make sure you drag that section to the very beginning at time 0:00:00, and then do the strectching. Also give yourself a dew seconds of lead-in music so that you can find the place you need to start playing. Then create a new track and record your instrument in time with the slowed down track starting at time 0:00:00, and allow the recorded section to go until at least a little past the end of the guide track even if it's just silence. After recording, adjust the end of your recorded track back to be in line with the end of the guide track but don't hold the SHIFT+CTRL when you do this. Once the tracks line up at the end, hold down CTRL+SHIFT to select both tracks and slide them to the left to where the marker that says "original clip %100". This is where being in Snap mode helps out for getting things back to %100. Then highlight your new recorded clip which will say about %75 in my example, and "bounce" it to get rid of the reduced percentage mark in the top of the clip so that it doesn't show any percentage which I assume means it's back to %100. Then close this "slowed down" project and re-open the original project Then go to the folder of the slowed down but sped up audio file you named "Guitar slow down" and find your perfectly played new modified clip in the Audio files folder and simply drag it back into your original project and place in the right spot. NOTE: I just tried using the entire 3 minute guide track (stretched to about 3.5 minutes) and waited for a 15 second scratch guitar part I wanted to do in double time at about the 2 minute mark and I had to wait several minutes to get there and then after recording only 15 seconds allowed it to record silence to the end of the guide track. If you do this, you don't need to worry about placing lots of markers. I was hoping recording the entire track would allow the new track to more easily line up when I inserted back into the main project. However, when I dragged it into the project it still didn't match up perfectly and I had to move it just a hair. Anyway it works pretty well and no math to do! I'm also going to try the method Blogospherianman detailed but I've never had luck using the Audio Snap, so I'll give that a try and see if it's any better/faster, etc. Thanx to everyone for helping me out, and yesterday, I actually recorded the main formerly too fast, riff, again, in real time and think it's an even better take. OTHER NEWS My 30 years of gout arthritis seems to be fading as I had my 29th infusion of Krystexxa yesterday, the new miracle gout cure! Both hands had obvious lumps of gout tophi on them 2 years ago which made playing guitar painful and I lost a lot of speed and dexterity and had completely stopped playing. But 6 months into my 1 year therapy so far, all the lumps were gone and I could resume playing music again. My Doc said I have it bad and set me up for another 6 months of treatment. So if you have out-of-control gout or know anyone who does, look up Krystexxa. At the rate my gout is disappearing I may actually be able to play as fast as Van Halen!
  15. OK Max, it worked fairly well but I think I needed to be a little more precise on where the guitar riff ended as I had to tweak it a bit. But, I was able to get it done and it sounds way better than before. FYI I was trying to play the guitar riff to "I Want Candy" by Bow Wow Wow, something I originally thought would be easy - not. Getting old here (61) with a bit of arthritis in both hands. Fortunately I was able to play the drums, bass, rhythm guitar, keys, egg (we need more egg!) and sing in original time (about 101 BPM), so all is not lost. Thanx again.
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